Fatty acid profiles

From the previous post, we learned what makes some oils liquid, soft, and solid. Now what are the properties of specific fatty acids? If you are a soap-maker, it is important to know the properties fatty acids will provide the soap being produced.


The composition of the fatty acid helps to determine its melting point, stability and its saponification value.

When choosing oils for your lotions, massage oils and other handmade products, it is important to know the properties of the chosen oil. Knowing the fatty acid content is very important for soap-making.

Saturated fatty acids tend to have good cleaning properties and make a nice foamy lather. The longer the fatty acid chain, the harder bar of soap it will make. The shorter the chain, the harsher the soap will be but great at breaking down oily substances. To much of the shorter chained fatty acids can make a brittle bar of soap.

Unsaturated fatty acids have good cleaning properties but lather poorly. Unsaturated fatty acids do make a milder bar of soap. These fatty acids work best on dirt, they are not that great at breaking down oily substances.

MAIN SOAP-MAKING FATTY ACIDS

Lauric: A saturated fatty acid. Makes a hard bar of soap and makes a fluffy lather. Try not to add to much, it can cause excessive drying and can be harsh. Lauric acid is a main component of coconut oil and palm kernel oil (about 50% for both oils).

Linoleic: A polyunsaturated fatty acid. Best if used in small amounts with more stable oils, it has a short shelf-life (approximately six months). Makes a mild soap, provides conditioning and moisturizing properties to soap. Linoleic is an essential fatty acid and is necessary for good health. Deficiencies of this fatty acid can cause the skin to become dry and scaly, hair loss can also occur. Linoleic can also help combat acne. It is a main component of safflower oil (60%) and sunflower oil (65%).

Linolenic: A polyunsaturated fatty acid with three double bonds. It has a high chance of becoming rancid. Also helps to provide conditioning properties to soap. Helps inhibit inflammation from burns.

Myristic: A saturated fatty acid that makes a hard bar of soap with a good lather. Great cleaning properties but can be harsh and drying. Found in nutmeg butter, coconut oil and palm kernel oil.

Oleic: A monosaturated fatty acid that adds conditioning and moisturizing properties to soap. However, it does not produce a good lather. This fatty acid is a main component of olive oil (60 -70%). Helps increase the absorption rate of active agent ands spreads well on the skin.

Palmitic: A saturated fatty acid that has a long shelf-life. It can be harsh and makes a hard bar of soap with a creamy, stable lather. Palmitic acid is a skin barrier component, when combined with ceramides and cholesterol, it protects the skin. High concentrations are found in avocado and wheat germ oil.

Ricinoleic: A monounsaturated fatty acid that provides conditioning properties, has a creamy, fluffy and stable lather. This fatty acid is a main component in Castor oil.

Stearic: A saturated fatty acid that makes a stable, creamy lather and makes a hard bar of soap. It has a long shelf-life. Stearic acid is a skin barrier component that provides skin protection. It helps with moisture retention and skin flexibility. Found in shea and cocoa butter.

Palmitoleic: A monounsaturated fatty acid. Found in macadamia nuts, sea buckthorn oil and avocados. A natural fatty acid component found in the skin.

Check out the next blog, how are oils extracted?

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