Monday, September 9, 2013

Essential Oils and Carrier Oils, What's the difference?

Essential Oils and Carrier Oils are not the same and should not be used interchangeably. They are two different types of substances that are not the same.

Carrier Oils
Also known as base oils, vegetable oils or fixed oils. Essential Oils and absolutes are usually diluted into carrier oils.

Carrier oils earn this name due to the fact that they "carry" additives, such as Essential Oils into the skin. They do not evaporate and is why Carrier oils are also called Fixed oils.

They can go rancid through oxidation.

Carrier Oils are true oils derived fromm plant and animal fats. The main constituents in carrier oils are fatty acids (lipids), waxes, and water-soluble vitamins (A, D, E and K). Carrier oils are obtained using (see extraction methods blog) expeller pressed (hot or cold pressed), solvent extraction, maceration/infusion, centrifuge, CO2 extraction, supercritical carbon dioxide extraction or boiling.

Uses: Massage therapy, soap-making, lotion-making, lip balm, hair care products, skin care products, straight out of the container, the list goes on.

Essential Oils
Defined as concentrated volatile natural aromatic compound of a plant. Basically it is an "oily-like", hydrophobic, aromatic essences from plant material (roots, stem, leaves, flowers, bark, seeds, berries, peels, and resin). The main chemical make-up of Essential Oils are: alcohols, aldehydes, esters, ethers, ketones, phenols, terpenes and oxides. Essential oils are usually extracted using steam distillation under pressure, except for citrus oils which are extracted by cold pressing. Essential oils can also be extracted with water distillation (plant material is completely immersed in water and then is boiled, then condensed and cooled down. The oil is then separated out, as it layers on the top of the water, leaving floral waters, which are also called hydrosol or sweet water). Any other method of extraction, like CO2 extraction is labeled an extract (however, there are some Essential oils that can not be extracted with distillation or expression).

Essential oils are also known as volatiles, aetherolea or ethereal oils.

Essential oils can evaporate (volatile), are fat-soluble and do not go rancid, however they can lose their potency through oxidation.

Essential oils are not true oils because they do not contain fatty acids (lipids). They have to be diluted with a Carrier oil due to skin irritation if used at full potency.

Uses: Inhalation for aromatherapy, natural fragrance, added to massage oils, skin care products, burned or diffusion into the air.

What are Essential Oils that have been extracted by means other than being cold pressed or steam distilled? These are called extracts, which itself has several subcategories.

Extracts

Extracts are Essential oils dissolved in alcohol or Essential oils extracted utilizing a solvent. Extracts can evaporate like Essential oils.

Extracts are extracted by means of expression (cold or hot pressed), absorption (steeping in alcohol, water or glycerin), maceration, distillation with maceration, solvent extraction and florasol extraction (uses benign gaseous solvents at or below ambient temperatures, decreases thermal degradation of the product). Extracts can have an advantage over Essential Oils due to the fact that they are least likely to have been damaged by heat.

Extracts have several subcategories: Hydrosols, infusions, tinctures, glycerites, oleoresin, concretes and absolutes.

Hydrosols are the aromatic water that is left behind during the production of essential oils. These are also called floral waters or sweet water.
Infusions are plant material steeped in water over time, oil infusions are steeped from days to weeks.
Tinctures are plant material steeped in alcohol solution.
Glycerites are extracts in glycerine.
Oleoresins are formed when an alcohol based extract has the alcohol evaporated from it.
Concretes are formed when plant material are steeped in a solvent (hexane), then distilled to remove the solvent, leaving behind what is called a concrete.
Absolutes are when a concrete is mixed with and alcohol to extract the aromatic compounds, then the alcohol is evaporated out. This is more concentrated than Essential oils.
There are also chemically-created essences that are called extracts, but are created in a lab.

Uses: Cooking, perfumes, medicine, ...etc.

When shopping, look at your INCI names, ask your supplier questions if you are not sure and ask how the item is extracted. Look at the Certificate of Analysis or Material Safety Data Sheets for more information, if available. You can see what was added to the product in question. Hopefully, your supplier will have it posted in an easy to find place.

Shop for Carrier Oils at www.earthly-oils.com


Tuesday, September 3, 2013

A little about labeling.

I know this post is short, here are some links about labeling your products if you live in the USA, Europe and Canada. Click this link: Cosmetic Labeling Guide, if you plan on selling cosmetics in the United states.

The European Union's Cosmetic Directive (European Union Policies) has its own rules for companies residing in one of the 38 European member states.

For our northern neighbors in Canada, look at the Health Canada's website for rules on labeling there (Health Canada cosmetic labeling).